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On December 12, Denim Tears released its first full in-house denim line following years of leaning on Levi’s as its main manufacturing partner. The first release represents a full-circle moment for the brand, which has built its universe around denim as a cultural artifact since its establishment.
Founded by Tremaine Emory in 2019, the label had only dabbled in limited drops of in-house denim until now. A beloved pair of Levi’s is how the name “Denim Tears” came to Emory, and he’s still holding onto the pair of LVC (Levi’s Vintage Clothing) jeans he bought in 2010 — a piece he wore “until they were ripped to shreds.” “Needless to say, Levi’s is great, and we look forward to working with them in the future,” Emory shared with me on a call the day before launching.
“People are often obsessed with Creative Directors, but we are nothing without the people we work with.”
Cut, sewn, and washed in the USA, the brand debuted “Denim Tears Denim,” with a stripped-back, monochromatic campaign shot by Liam Macrae. The photos are fronted by close friends and team members, which was a conscious choice for Emory, who was quick to credit his team as he reflected on the development process.
“The brand is just as much a testament to them as it is to me,” he stated, naming colleagues Bryce, Kenji, Monique, Angel, and more. “People are often obsessed with Creative Directors, but we are nothing without the people we work with,” he added.
In two core fits (Straight and Baggy), Denim Tears offers a choice between hefty 14 oz denim and a lighter 13 oz Selvedge Denim, which is crafted in Japan using traditional shuttle looms. To complement the pants, Trucker Jackets are offered in matching fabrications, completing the look. And of course, each silhouette also comes in the brand’s signature cotton wreath print and two different washes.
Beyond aesthetics, Emory is more concerned with “the people,” both in his team and in the supply chain, ensuring that environmental and social responsibility remain top of mind. Furthermore, now having full oversight over his denim line, the creative director is determined to continue driving discourse on the fabric’s complicated legacy.
In a candid conversation, Emory expanded on the importance of acknowledging everyone involved in the process, designing denim with “emotion,” and advancing stories that have been buried in history “whether people want to hear them or not.”
You launched Denim Tears in 2019. Why did you wait until now to launch a fully in-house denim line?
Tremaine Emory: We have done seasonal in-house denim before—like the “Frog and Scorpion” collection that came out last year—but we have been working on this core program for a very long time. Needless to say, Levi’s is great, and we look forward to working with them in the future; we aren’t severing that relationship as a collaborator.
However, with Levi’s, it is a partnership where we buy a certain amount of units, so we have to work very far ahead because they are such a big company. You can’t be as nimble. This move is about having the nimbleness to change things season-to-season for our core denim program.
What is the difference between doing in-house denim this time around versus the previous seasonal releases?
Tremaine Emory: The core denim program is a broader interpretation of what denim is for the brand. Seasonal denim represents the specific story, references, and research I am doing with my team for that particular season. The core program represents the brand as a whole.
I saw that these jeans were produced in the “cleanest denim factory in the world.” Can you tell me more about the production process?
Tremaine Emory: We do our due diligence on where we make our products—how people are treated, how the clothing is made, and the quality. I have a team of about 30 people between the stores and the office, and I have people I trust who help vet these locations.
We found this factory, and it checked all our boxes. We felt we could make great denim there. We looked at the denim they’ve made and started sampling. It’s a process; it isn’t just me alone. It’s about working with my team to get it right with the right factory.
What qualities do you think make a good pair of jeans?
Tremaine Emory: Besides the quality, texture, and wash, there’s also something more existential and emotional. The jeans can’t be flat. The emotion of the jeans—and what they represent for the brand—has to be equal to the wash and the fit. That is really what we looked to achieve with this.
You are using two types of denim: a 14-ounce and a 13-ounce selvedge Japanese denim for this collection. For those not familiar, what makes selvedge construction favorable?
Tremaine Emory: It comes down to the machines it is made on. It wears better and is more durable. But again, it goes back to that emotion. There is a technical reason people feel it is better—the tightly woven fabric achieved only with certain shuttle looms—but it also gives off a specific feeling.
Regarding sourcing, are you always looking to source within the U.S., or was this specific to this collection?
Tremaine Emory: We source from all over the world. I feel some of the best factories are in China. They’ve been doing it so long, and they’re so skilled at making things. There are also great factories in Portugal, Turkey, and Japan.
However, these specific jeans are made in the USA because of the relationship we have with this factory. I’m not into regions as much as I am into the specific factory: Do they have the shuttle looms? How do they treat their employees? It’s really about the equipment and the people.
“Denim is directly connected to Black history and the diaspora, yet that story is seldom told by heritage brands.”
The leather patch on this collection is very front-and-center, featuring “1619” and the ADG flower. Can you walk me through the intention behind that design?
Tremaine Emory: It’s about viewing something seen as “Americana” and imbuing it with a history that hasn’t been recognized by the Western world. Denim jeans come from slavery. They were originally called “Negro cloth.”
Enslaved people, and later sharecroppers in the Jim Crow South, wore this cloth. Even the indigo dyeing technique comes from Africa. In my second Levi’s collection, based on the movie Daughters of the Dust, we highlighted the Gullah Geechee people, whose hands were permanently dyed blue from working the indigo.
Denim is directly connected to Black history and the diaspora, yet that story is seldom told by heritage brands. The “1619” represents the arrival of the first slave ship, the White Lion, in Virginia. Denim Tears exists to tell these stories—whether people want to hear them or not.
Do you have a favorite denim wash?
Tremaine Emory: If it has the cotton wreath, I think raw denim looks the most beautiful. For non-wreath denim, my favorite is the dark wash. That’s my preference as of today.
Do you have a “prized” pair of jeans?
Tremaine Emory: Yes. In 2010, I got a moving bonus when I worked for Marc Jacobs—the most money I’d ever had in my life at the time. I went to the Levi’s vintage store on Carnaby Street in London and bought a pair of jeans.
I wore those jeans every day for years until they were ripped to shreds. The name “Denim Tears” actually comes from those jeans, originating from an inside joke. The original fit of the jeans we make for the brand today is based on that specific pair. I still have them, even though I can’t fit into a size 36 anymore.
Finally, what are you looking forward to in 2026?
Tremaine Emory: There will definitely be more denim—both seasonal and core. But what I am really looking forward to is opening our store in Tokyo, which we are targeting for the beginning of spring.
Beyond that, I’m just looking forward to continuing to work with my amazing team. People are often obsessed with Creative Directors, but we are nothing without the people we work with. Whether it’s Bryce, Kenji, Monique, or Angel, the brand is just as much a testament to them as it is to me.
Prince may have played every instrument on the recording, but when he went on tour, he still needed The Revolution.
Heron Preston relaunched his independent label with a new modular release structure, and Tremaine Emory debuted the standalone “DENIM BY DENIM TEARS” brand.
Beyoncé, Venus Williams, and Nicole Kidman were named Met Gala 2026 co-chairs, and Chanel chose historic Biarritz, France, for its Cruise 2027 show.
NYFW is officially banning fur starting February 2026, and BAPE unveiled a minimalist, all-white concept store and café in Hong Kong.
Heron Preston has officially relaunched his independent namesake label after securing full and exclusive ownership of his trademarks from the New Guards Group Holding. The designer’s new creative chapter is titled “Foundation: Blue Line Edit,” which eschews traditional seasonal runway shows for a small-batch edit structure. The new distribution model will release products continuously in succinct “blocks” of seven pieces, beginning with Block 1 on December 9. Central to the relaunch is the inverted Orange Label, which Preston states was “born in defiance” and now symbolizes perseverance, resilience, and the artist’s ability to reinvent the system.
The Metropolitan Museum of Art has named an unprecedented trio of global superstars—Beyoncé, Venus Williams, and Nicole Kidman—as co-chairs for the highly anticipated 2026 Met Gala, bringing together three monumental figures of music, sports, and cinema. The Costume Institute has confirmed that the official theme for the 2026 exhibition will be “Costume Art,” a concept intended to declare fashion as a significant fine art form and explore the connection between clothing and the human body.
Chanel has announced that Creative Director Matthieu Blazy will debut his Cruise 2027 collection in Biarritz, France, on April 28. The French coastal town holds immense significance for the brand, as founder Gabrielle Chanel opened a vital branch there in 1915 during World War I. Furthermore, Biarritz’s lively, sporty atmosphere played a crucial role in inspiring Coco Chanel’s pioneering sportswear aesthetic, which famously helped liberate women from the confines of previous dress codes.
The Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), the official organizer of New York Fashion Week (NYFW), has announced a new policy: it will no longer promote animal fur across any Official NYFW Schedule events, including on its Fashion Calendar, website, and social media channels. This ban will take effect starting with the February 2026 season. CFDA CEO Steven Kolb stated that the move aims to inspire American designers to consider the industry’s impact on animals and position American fashion as a leader in material innovation. This commitment follows similar steps taken by London Fashion Week and years of collaboration with animal rights groups.
Tremaine Emory’s brand, Denim Tears, has produced its own denim line, “DENIM BY DENIM TEARS,” marking a new phase of creative autonomy after years of successful collaborations, notably with Levi’s. The inaugural release establishes in-house denim as a core symbol of the brand’s evolution and cultural storytelling. The collection prominently revisits the iconic “Cotton Wreath” motif across two key silhouettes: the D-TEARS Signature Straight Leg Jean and the D-TEARS Loose Fit Jean. Available in washes like vintage indigo, bleached indigo, and black, the line features custom hardware and unique stitching, with prices for the initial collection ranging from $250 to $450 USD.
BAPE has inaugurated a landmark retail space in Hong Kong, unveiling its first-ever all-white concept store and cafe at the historic 1881 Heritage in Tsim Sha Tsui. This two-floor space signifies a bold evolution of the brand’s retail identity, consciously departing from its traditional, vibrant camouflage aesthetic. The interior uses a pristine, minimalist all-white color palette to create a gallery-like backdrop that highlights luxury materials and allows the colorful products to stand out. The location also introduces the BAPE CAFE!?, the brand’s first full-service dining concept in the city, offering gourmet coffees and exclusive BAPE-themed dishes.
